no buy challenge: week 1
#Nobuychallenge week 1
#不買日記
Late last year, I started to declutter my closet, observing my own buying habits. Spoiler alert, it could be quite unpleasantly confronting. After that, I started buying less, and tried to buy better. And it seriously changed my life. There are a lot of issues with fast fashion, but I’m not going to get into the negative impact of this system (this is not a post against fashion fashion), instead, I just wanted to focus on how we can curate our clothes and extend our closet life. I decided to start a 3 months “No Buy Challenge” project. So in this new series, I’ll be rounding up the my 3 favourite looks for the week and why decided to keep these garments and accessories. Hope you’ll find it useful and interesting.
2019 下半年開始對膠囊衣櫥、極簡衣櫥、衣櫥計畫等等議題開始感興趣。因為工作的關係，也開始接觸慢時尚、意識型消費、環保時尚等。先前因為一篇雜誌需要的文章，專訪了一些人，進而開始審思自己的消費行為。終於，在這個年初，下了 No Buy Challegne 計畫。我太理解自己的個性，絕對做不成完全不買的極端份子，所以打算先給自己定三個月的期限，用 「＃不買日記」紀錄心情，看看之後會有什麼樣的轉變。每周選三套成一篇，將過去七天常穿單品的進行分享，挑戰自己的創意，順便聊聊為何決定在去年大清理留下他們，或許也能給你們一些靈感。那麼 ＃不買日記 第一篇，就此創刊啦。
Outfit #1
1. Equipment Signature Silk Shirt (in Black)
2. Madewell High-rise Slim Boyfriend Jeans
3. Marc Jacobs Empire Sneakers
4. Acne Studios Mini Musubi Bag (in Stone)
5. Cartier Panthère Watch
Equipment Signature Silk Blouse - Bought in 2015
A couple of years ago, I was introduced to the world of Equipment silk blouses (Sorry, wallet). I love them so much that I only wear shirts from them exclusively. It’s absolutely perfect. They are extremely soft, slightly loose without looking too slouchy. Perhaps one of the oldest pieces I own. Pair it with jeans, skirt, shorts, you can even use it as a light jacket. The possibilities are endless. This will always be my favourite top for it’s year-round versatility and that fact once you give it a steam it stays pretty crease-free.
大概三四年前開始接觸絲質襯衫，從此一去不復返。現在衣櫃裡的襯衫，清一色都是 Equipment 家的，喜歡他們的版型，布料也非常親膚。重點是雖然柔軟，但穿起來不會看起來沒精神。手上這件黑色的，已經穿了五年，也不太容易皺。因為絲質的關係所以必須送洗，這點就必續注意，我朋友之前就是因為自己洗不小心洗壞了，分享給大家參考。搭配方式完全可以啟用「無腦模式」，牛仔褲、短褲、西裝褲、短裙、長裙，甚至拿來當薄外套都行。簡單搞定。
Madewell High-rise Slim Boyfriend Jeans-Bought in 2018
If you’ve read my “Denim Guide”, then you’ll understand my obsession. I love denim. Period. I tend to let myself go crazy a little bit when it comes to denim, since it is my most worn category. I’ve been trying to make sure every time I bring in a new piece, I try to buy as sustainable & ethical as possible. Even though, let’s be honest, the most sustainable thing you can do is shop from your own stash. That being said, denim itself is quite a planet harmful piece of clothing because of its usage of water and spandex. So the alternative (less harmful) way is to shop second hand, or look for brands that tries to do it better. Madewell is an amazing example. What they do is that not only they are fair trade, the also use sustainably sourced cotton (they are a member of BCI) and at the same time recycle old denim to make it into new ones.
Okay, enough about the sustainable clothing geek talk (leaving it to another article), let’s talk about the style. With Madewell jeans, you get a bit more room to breath and move around (especially at the hip), so if you are on the curvier side, I’d recommend taking a look at them. I only own one pair of Madewell jeans, so I can only speak for this particular style. The High-Rise Slim Boyfriend is like a pair of vintage men’s cut that actually fits the female body. Sounds like a dream yeh? Well, they made it happen. They go pretty high up to your belly button, and drops right at the ankle. I had mine chopped a little due to my frame, but I reckon if you’re anything higher than 5 ft 1, you should be fine.
又到了我最愛的牛仔褲時間。看過我前一篇丹寧分享的人，應該清楚，我對於牛仔褲到底有多熱愛。遇到喜歡的款式的時候，我一般來說不太會猶豫，因為我知道它的翻牌率絕對很高，我一定會一直一直穿它。當然，如果要討論起永續與環保，丹寧本身很耗費水，所以在綠時尚這塊，很多時候是不合格的。不過，也有許多丹寧品牌，希望能在製成中做點改善，哪怕是一丁點都好。匹如說像是回收舊款式，經過處理再度製造一件新的，又或者利用有機棉；而作為消費者，也能以購買二手牛仔褲的方式，來減少消耗。Madewell 就是一個在這方面做得非常好的品牌，我先前提到的兩個方式他們都有在著手進行。大家可以上官網看看。
好咧，關於「永續時尚」的這個課題，就先到此為止，現在來分享這件高腰直筒褲。因為我本人比較矮的關係，我基本上只穿高腰牛仔褲，而且要至少11寸高腰。Madewell 這款不管是厚度、剪裁還是磅數上，都讓人很滿意。算是偏軟的款式，所以不用怕晚餐吃太飽不舒服（笑）簡單來說，就是一條完全符合理想模樣的牛仔褲。有多愛呢？快超過多年愛牌 Agolde 那們愛。長度方面也挺不錯的，如果是你比我高些（我155，所以有再剪過），那褲腳應該會落在腳踝左右。
Acne Studios Musubi Bag-Bought in 2019
During Christmas, I made the choice to order the Acne Studios Mini Musubi Bag. Recently, I’ve been trying to be smarter with my designer bag purchases so that it doest not sit in a dust bag and wait to be re-sell later. Which I’ve been completely guilty of for the past few years. I came up with this idea of putting it on your list for about 6 months, and come back to it and see if you still love it as much. I have been looking for mid size white bag for a while, there were some other bags that I looked at the meantime, but none of them fit my style and some are just too ‘out there’. Even though it is called a mini bag, it is surprisingly roomy. The branding is extremely minimal with a tiny logo — my preference. It is a clean design while the knots on each side adds the Japanese-inspired characteristic. The Musubi bag packs my camera, card holder, phone, air pods and makeup bits. However, I wouldn’t suggest packing it to brim so that you don’t loose pinch on top. It also comes with a strap, so you can wear it cross-body.
開始賣自己的二手衣物後，發現我旅遊的時候，是個百分之百的衝動型購物者。於是，去年我給自己下了「六個月期限」的購物規則。出門在外喜歡上一個東西的時候，先放在願望清單，半年過後，如果依舊喜愛者，那就准許自己去買，畢竟現在網購很方便，大部分的東西都是在世界各地還是買得到的。Acne Studios 的這個 Musubi 包款 就是去年通過考驗的包包之一。找中型的白色包包有段時間了，不想要太招搖，特別是 Logo 很明顯的包包等等我都不愛，像Musubi這種無色刻印的最好。手上這個是mini尺寸，但是相機（富士XT3)、B5 筆記本、眼鏡、唇膏與錢包等等放進去都不是問題。不過，我倒是不推薦裝太滿，不然包包本身的弧度跑掉就少了點特色。寬版的背帶，在兩側有日式扭結設計，這就是我當初被立刻吸引的原因。極簡，但不無聊，用線條取勝。
Marc Jacobs Empire Platform Sneakers - Bought in 2018
Perhaps the most comfortable platform sneakers I own. Sadly, I think they have discontinued this particular style now, but the good thing is that there are tons of other choices , for example here & here. They have been through so much with me, travelled through Europe, Singapore, Taiwan and Japan and they are still going strong. I’d say if you were to invest in any kind of footwear, my first recommendation is find that perfect pair of white kicks.
我目前穿過最舒服的厚底白鞋。買了兩年，穿著它去過巴黎、克羅埃西亞、東京、回台灣，連在澳洲也幾乎天天穿著它走跳（我上下班都是用走的，大約一小時）。可惜的是，一模一樣的款式 Marc Jacobs 好像已經不出Alexander McQueen 這雙我也很喜歡或是 Rag & Bone 這雙看起來也很舒服。小白鞋真的是我認為最適合投資的款式，另一個則是黑色靴子（這篇有分享過）
Outfit #2
1. Everlane Shirt Dress
2. Marc Jacobs Empire Sneakers
3. Goyard Medium Tote in White
4. Vintage Watch & Dior Necklace
Everlane Shirt Dress - Bought in 2019
Radical transparency — Everlane’s brand spirit. It is ‘the shop’ to go for if you’re looking to find ethically made classic pieces. However, if I’m honest, they are not the most short girl friendly brand. Even their petite pieces tend to bit overwhelming for my 5ft frame. I got extremely excited when I discovered they actually ship to Australia and ordered a couple of pieces to try. And with all the pieces that came, I only kept two, one being this beautiful Japanese Goweave Notch Shirt Dress. The fabric is so breathable (even for the 40 degree Melbourne summer), it steams perfectly and stays pretty much wrinkle-free for a good month or so. I love how it has a super minimal structure without being boring, and the belt cinches your waist which provides a flattering figure.
開始注意道德時尚（ethical fashion）之後，陸陸續續研究了很多品牌。Everlane 不只清楚標註了布料來源，還主動提供生產線的細節與工廠地點，把消費者的認知權發揮到極致。Everlane 出品以基本款為主，大部分都是耐看耐穿的款式，另外，他們對於牛仔褲也有涉略（雖然我個人是覺得還有待加強）。雖然說品牌有分一般款與嬌小款，但不知道是美國人真的都非常高的關係，即便是petite在我身上還是會過長。之前發現他們開始寄送澳洲之後，訂了一些款式來試試，不過最後只留了兩件，而這件襯衫裙就是其中之一。是硬挺的布料，也不太容易皺，用蒸氣燙過可以維持個幾週到一個月沒問題。重點是摸起來雖然有厚度，但完全不會悶熱，40度的澳洲烈日下也穿得著。極簡的設計，有內附腰帶來凸顯腰身（模特兒是綁在前面，但我覺得往後綁好看些），非常適合像我一樣160以下的的身形。
Marc Jacobs Empire Sneakers - Bought in 2018
What can I say, I just love it.
欸對，這雙球鞋，我真的天天穿。
Goyard Medium St Louis Tote in White - Bought in 2016
Perhaps the most loved bag from Goyard. It is my go-to shopper tote choice. We have gone through some serious thick and thin. The St Louis Tote is made of coated canvas, so it is extremely light and durable. Also, a great travel choice if you don’t fancy having a carry on luggage. I always carry this when I’m gonna spend an entire day in a cafe working, because I need to pack EVERYTHING. I’m not gonna lie, they are outrageously expensive, at the end of the day, it is a fancy purchase. But at the end of the day, I worked hard, and this bag does make me happy — plus, the cost per wear seriously makes it worth every penny.
St Louis 托特包是 Goyard 最受歡迎，也最廣為人知的款式。需要大型托特包的時候，基本身都是背它出門。由棉、麻布編織而成，外塗層的仿皮革設計除了上色外，也能增加布料的硬度。可能因為不是全皮的關係，所以包包本身非常輕，但依舊耐用。擁有它邁入第四年，還是完好如初。網路看到有人裝太多東西斷掉，我自己是沒有遇過，不過重量的部分大家還是要注意。我自己背著電腦出門，或是上飛機哩哩扣扣的必需品都 OK。知道這樣的價位並不是大家都能接受，畢竟每個人願意投資的地方不同。對我來說，買精品的確大快人心，但讓人享受的並不是買的當下，而是擁有並使用它的過程。我認為這樣的質感，值得這樣的價錢，而我，也值得對自己好。
Outfit #3
1. Pazzo Jersey Dress
2. Marc Jacobs Empire Sneakers
3. By Far Rachel Bag in Cream
4. Wooga Jewellery
Pazzo Jersey Dress - Bought in 2019
I don’t shop with Taiwanese brands much anymore, but last year one particular piece from Pazzo caught my eye last year — a black rayon jersey dress. Sounds boring yeh? I love jersey dresses (or so called ti-shirt dresses). I wear them for weekend errands and especially on the plane. I went for size Small, which is still pretty long for me (what’s new…make it a drinking game), so I’ll normally use a fabric belt to cinch the waist to flatter my frame a bit more. As for fabric, it is made of 100% modal fibre, which can be a sustainable fabric depending on how it is sourced and the manufacturing details. Unfortunately, they are sold out, but here’s a similar alternative I found online.
真的很少買台灣的服裝品牌，主要原因寄送海外如果需要退換貨真的都不太方便。不過去年看到 WeartoeatTiff 跟 Pazzo 聯名的時候，倒是被這件長板 T-shirt dress 吸引，於是冒著不能退換貨的風險下，還是狠下心買了。其實會願意買這件的原因有三個；首先，因為是亞洲品牌，長度方面應該比較適合亞洲人，加上高開衩的設計也拉長身形的效果。最後，就是我上飛機最常穿的就是 T-shirt dress，所以實穿度絕對是過關的。布料方面是 modal fibre，所以的確有永續的可能性，不過官網上並沒有特別標示出處或是製造過程，所以很難下定論。Pazzo 上前幾天看還有貨，沒想到文章寫到這裡的時候居然已經 sold out，所以在這裡找了個類似款給大家（笑）
Marc Jacobs Empire Sneakers — Bought in 2018
One last time.
沒錯，三套都穿同一雙鞋。
By Far Rachel Bag in Cream - Bought in 2019
I have not seen a ready-to-wear brand take on social media like By Far. At least not on my feed. All the way from Bulgaria, a brand founded by three girls who have failed to find the perfect shoes. Though I’m honest, their footwear are not something I’d really recommend; the bags, however, are extremely beautifully made. Much like my Acne Studios Musubi bag, I followed the 6 months rule. You can probably tell from the last two looks, even though my outfits are mainly a sea of black, I do love my white/cream bags. The Rachel Bag Sits nicely right under the arm — Chic? yes. But sadly not too practical for winter. The removable handle makes it a little more versatile for evenings out. It is not the cheapest purchase, but I have solidly wear it everyday for the past 5 months. Most of all, the leather is so durable that I have managed to keep it still perfectly cream, can you believe it?
應該好一段時間沒有這麼高頻率的看到某個獨立設計師瘋狂出現在 instagram 版面上了。來自保加利亞的 By Far，由三位女生創立，因為在市面上找不到喜歡的鞋子，進而有了打造自己品牌的想法（但老實說，我覺得他們家的鞋子不管是質感還是舒適度都都有待加強）。去年夏天，再經過「六個月規則」後，入手了 Rachel Bag；包包本身的設計靈感就是 Friends 裡面的 Rachel，所以索性以她命名。記得快遞員送包裹來的情況，因為已經好一陣子沒有對某款包包這麼期待了。拿著大紙盒搭電梯的時候，感覺裡頭好像沒東西一樣，原來重量不到一公斤的皮革包包拿起來就是這麼輕鬆。以價位來說，品質控管算是做的不錯。光澤感夠，皮頗有韌性，拉鍊也很流暢。仔細觀察內裡，的確會看到一些差強人意的細節；不過，整體的使用感受依然是順利過關。Rachel Bag 是名副其實的腋下包，為什麼這樣說呢？因為背帶本身的設計非常短，春夏秋三季，背起來都沒有問題，但衣服只要一厚，或是披上了大衣，基本上就是上衣只要一厚實就不能背了，這就是所謂的美中不足吧。
Slow styling is something that I’ve been trying to lean into for a while, after the huge wardrobe declutter last year, I’ve been finding new ways to wear pieces instead of letting things get dusty in my wardrobe and hauling every couple of weeks. It’s not an easy process and loads of research is involved when it comes to make sustainable purchases. Please note, I am not perfect. My job as a content creator does some how encourage overconsumption. And this year I’d like to change that. I’m not saying I’ll start to shop 100% sustainable straightway, but I do want to start shopping more consciously. Maybe it will take me years to get there, but it’s never too late to start your first steps. Baby steps, y’all. I’m very much still a beginner with lots to learn. Which is why I created this series for any of you out there who are in the same boat. This is a journal, I’d say, rather than actual informative guide to slow fashion. All that said, it was fun writing this article, it made me fall in love with blogging all over again. Hope you’ve enjoyed it.
好咧，一口氣寫了三款穿搭。這篇不是要鼓吹大家購物，除了紀錄我自己「#不買日記」以外，也是希望大家能利用手邊的基本款做搭配。匹如說，小白鞋相信大家都是有的，牛仔褲等等也都是。當然，如果真的有缺，或是認真考慮過，覺得自己真的會一穿再穿之後，可以從我分享的這些品牌下手身為半個部落客，分享自己喜愛的東西已成習慣，某方面來說，刺激消費的確是我的工作內容。但今年我想做點改變。當然，我不可能立刻百分之百投入慢時尚，但我至少能從平日生活做起。於是，「#不買日記」在此創刊。從自己的衣櫃開始審視、頗析，做為一個時尚觀光客，我的命中率到底如何。從此刻現在開始，摸摸面料、想想搭配、研究製成與品牌。最後問問自己，我真的會一直穿它嗎？讓我們一起做個更有意識的消費者。
